Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Croaking and warbling

Pictures do a lot to describe a place, but sounds are what really identify it to someone who has been there. There are two animal sounds that I will always think of when remembering Phnom Penh.

Just after sunset on the first day we arrived in Phnom Penh, a very loud croaking sound came from outside the kitchen window. It was a deep, loud croak ending in kind of a "hiccup" sound. This was repeated 5 or 6 times: co-ahup, co-ahup, co-ahup. We couldn't see what was making the sound. The following night we were startled awake about 3 a.m. when the same deep croaking came from right outside the bedroom window. Inquiries led to the conclusion that the sound came from a lizard, a very big lizard (maybe a foot long??). We dubbed it the "croaking critter" and heard it nearly daily during our stay. A couple of times I heard it during the day and would hurry outside to try to catch a glimpse of the author of the impressive sound. I never succeeded. So, the croaking critter has remained a purely auditory memory, never allowing for a visual confirmation.

The other sound was much more pleasant. Every morning about 5:30 a.m., about half an hour before sunrise, a bird would start warbling or trilling. The tone was lovely. Hearing that wake-up call was much more pleasant than the strident crowing of a rooster. It was my signal that the sun would soon be rising so I'd better think about getting up if I wanted to get out for a walk before it got too hot.

This specific croaking and warbling remains my auditory memory identity of the city of Phnom Penh.

No comments:

Post a Comment